UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt Zoom

UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

SKU:59896341

Brand: Grundfos

Grundfos
Qty Price
$81.95
/ each
$299.80 / box (4 units x $74.95)
In Stock! Ships in 24-48 Hours
258 Available

Specs

Application: Zoning
Material: Cast Iron
Voltage:
?
115v
Max PSI:
?
145 psi
Type: 3-Speed Pump
Horse Power:
?
1/25
Flow Range (GPM): 0-17
Head Range (ft.): 0-19.5
Hertz: 60.0
Phase: 1.0
RPM: 2450
Temperature Range (F): 36°-230°F
Connection Size: 3/4"
1"
1-1/4"
1-1/2"
Connection Type: Flanged

Description for Grundfos 59896341


  • 3-Speed Super Brute Circulator Pump
  • With Integral Check Valve
  • 1/25 HP
  • 115 Volts
  • Pump Connection: GF 15/26 Flange
  • Built-in motor protection for long life
  • Multiple accessories for a variety of applications
  • Whisper-quiet operation for sound sensitive installations
  • Applications include, Hydronic heating, Fan coil heating, Solar heating, and Radiant heating systems

UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
GrundfosUPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt
 
4.7

(based on 45 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (34)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (9)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (1)

  • 2 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 1 Stars

     

    (1)

98%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Most Liked Positive Review

 

Great Product [...]

The radiant heat in my home is provided by hot water circulated by two Grundfos UPS15-58FC pumps, and there can be times when these seem to run for hours on end. When I ...Read complete review

The radiant heat in my home is provided by hot water circulated by two Grundfos UPS15-58FC pumps, and there can be times when these seem to run for hours on end. When I installed my system, I purposely ordered three of these so that I would have a back-up in the event of an emergency. Well, I am not always the most brilliant person in the world; however, this did prove to be a wise idea. For some reason, one of the first two did fail near the end of the winter. These things can happen. In less than twenty-minutes, I switched out the bad and switched in the good, and the zone was back in business without losing any heat. The next day, I contacted Pex Supply with my warranty information, and a new replacement arrived without issue. Nothing critical has happened since, but I am prepared if it does. Meanwhile, we remain efficiently toasty throughout the cold season here on Cape Cod.

VS

Most Liked Negative Review

 

At this point not impressed

I bought this pump as a spare so I will be evaluating the one I bought in June, 2011. I am using the pump on my home hot water heating system. After installing the...Read complete review

I bought this pump as a spare so I will be evaluating the one I bought in June, 2011. I am using the pump on my home hot water heating system. After installing the pump in June it seemed to work fine. When the heating season started this fall I put the pump on the low setting and it was quite for a few weeks then started to squeak. When I turned it to medium the squeaking stopped so I let it run on medium. In mid December it started to squeak on medium so I turned it to the high setting. It now only squeaks when it starts or stops but does whine(not loud) when running. It still works but at this point I am disappointed. My brother has a pump like mine only it is a single speed and he loves his.

Reviewed by 45 customers

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5.0

The pump,like all your products is great

By jazinmi1

from Atlantic Mine, MI

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

I have purchased a gas furnace, 40 gal stainless tank, pump from you for my new construction home and your products, prices and service are all outstanding.
Thank you for being one of the good guys to do business with.

 
5.0

What more could you ask for?

By Jim

from Lisbon, CT

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

Having 3 speeds is like having a custom pump for your system. By checking your supply and return temperature you may be able to select a different speed for more efficiency. I think that these pumps are really good and versatile.

 
4.0

Product as Expected

By "Handy" man

from Upstate NY

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

Pump functions as expected. Easy electrical connection with push to insert wire clips. Electical connection is goof proof. Only con is that electrical housing is plastic, but what isn't these days!

 
4.0

i would buy this product again

By R and A Stove Works

from cowen wv

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

Fast service,good price,good support network

 
5.0

Reliability, Comfort, Savings

By Nativebostonian

from Boston, MA

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

Replaced 4 large circulators for gas hot water residential boiler. Savings a no brainer in KWH consumption. 3 - Speed allows additonal savings and comfort. Cast iron baseboard zone set to low speed to take advantage of baseboard heat retention as opposed to slant fin in other zones.
Replacement was easy - flange size universal and electrical connections spring loaded.

 
4.0

Great pump

By the radiant one

from Santa cruz, ca

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

I install 100 or these each year with a very low failure rate

 
1.0

At this point not impressed

By Bryce

from Grand Ledge, MI

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

I bought this pump as a spare so I will be evaluating the one I bought in June, 2011. I am using the pump on my home hot water heating system. After installing the pump in June it seemed to work fine. When the heating season started this fall I put the pump on the low setting and it was quite for a few weeks then started to squeak. When I turned it to medium the squeaking stopped so I let it run on medium. In mid December it started to squeak on medium so I turned it to the high setting. It now only squeaks when it starts or stops but does whine(not loud) when running. It still works but at this point I am disappointed. My brother has a pump like mine only it is a single speed and he loves his.

 
4.0

Well worth the reasonable cost

By GL

from Sparta, NC

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

circulating hot water for radiant heating systen

 
5.0

tough product for a tough job

By golfer

from brooklyn, ny

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

great pump for domestic hot water heating.Adjustable speed adds to comfort and economy.no cons.

 
5.0

Great pump

By JC

from West Michigan

Verified Buyer

Comments about UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt:

Used this to feed my home from OWB and it works as advertized.

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Q&A: Ask the Questions, share answers

Do you have questions about this product?

get answers from real customers and in-house experts with AnswerBox.

42 Questions | 77 Answers
Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    I purchased this product and currently have it inline at the same height with a water source exposed to the open atmosphere. After electrically hooking up the pump it does not seem to be pumping the water through the pump on any of the three speeds.
    I now noticed from one of the spec sheets that there is an inlet pressure requirement. Could this be why I am having troubles? Is it necessary to elevate the water supply to increase pressure? Or is it a problem with the pump itself?
    Asked on 4/24/2012 by Griffin from San Luis Obispo, CA

    16 answers

    • A:

      Griffin, the NPSHA (Net Positive Suction Head Available) must be equal to or greater than the NPSHR (Net Positive Suction Head Required) at the BEP (Best Efficiency Point) of the pump curve. WHAT THE HAY??? That information is probably not available for that small pump. So, to increase the NPSHA, do this: Keep the pump as low as possible below the waterline (if you do this you don't need a Ck valve on the input or output, do the (n) if you are not pumping higher than the pump)--Make the supply piping a large as practicable--At least 12 pipe dia. of straight pipe before input to pump--Prevent air ingestion (tight flanges, no agitation in the water, no supply piping leaks). A little Air Ingestion can ruin pumping efficiency. Two smaller pumps in series are better than one big pump . We don't know what you're trying to do. The elevation your pumping to, etc.

      Answered on 4/30/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • A:

      Geez, Irene, DON"T RUN A WET ROTOR PUMP DRY (without any water in it). It must be filled with water or you'll ruin the ceramic bearings and shaft, pronto. Water is the bearing lubricant. A little bit of pressure will force the water into the rotor, thus lubing the bearings. Static pressure in a closed loop boiler system, normally pressurized to 12-15 psi, would force water into a newly installed pump quite easily. Just let it set a day or so with water in the pump before running it or pressurize the water in the inlet of the pump with a garden hose. This will also prime it if it is all connected.

      Answered on 4/30/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • A:

      The UPS15-58 doesn't pump water. Surprised? The impeller throws water forward, creating pressure at the outlet and negative pressure at the inlet. NPSH(Net Positive Suction Head) depends on a lot of things, Absolute Pressure, size of suction pipe (the larger the better), etc. You usually see NPSH on Muli-stage pumps. The lower the P inlet to the surface of the water the better. Remove the P ck valve if pumping up higher elevation , put a spring ck valve 12 pipe dia of straight pipe from P inlet, this will keep the pump primed. Use larger inlet pipe PVC? . Pumping lower el. or level, keep P ck valve in to hold prime (2-ck valves). Better yet, make a (u) shape on the discharge pipe with the open end of (u) facing down (n), so you're pumping up. Stainless or Bronze P

      Answered on 4/30/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The pressure requirement should not apply here. There probably is a check valve in the inlet that might be causing the problems. It is a small white plastic piece. It is only needed for multiple pump systems. Remove it with a screwdriver gently. The pump will need to be slightly below the water table but should work. If your concerned with the pump not operating normally, you can always take it out of line, wire it up and turn it on and see if the water slinger is turning inside. If it is, pump is fine.

      Answered on 4/26/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      My experience is excessive head pressure will cause this pump to not pump.
      The situation you describe is a low head pressure which you are thinking of
      increasing. The pump is specified to work with zero head, so I do not think
      that is your problem. The pump has a one-way check valve, so be sure it is
      installed to pump in the right direction. I have had situations with air
      trapped in the lines that created excess head pressure. I had to use a high
      pressure water line to force the air out and allow the pump to work.
      Good Luck!

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      these pumps are designed to operate in a pressure system.
      If you plan on using this pump in an open atmosphere, the pump needs to be on the bottom of the water level and on the supply side.
      Joey

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      There is probably air in the line. This pump cannot pump any air
      John Rush
      Evolo Home Center
      Evolo Energy Solutions
      www.evolohomecenter.com
      www.evoloenergysolutions.com
      Sent from my U.S. Cellular® Android phone

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You'll want some pressure on the inlet side.  But that's not your biggest problem: You said that the water source is open to the atmosphere, but this product is a cast iron pump.  That's not a good combination.  Use a bronze or stainless steel pump for that.

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      the term "Pump" is a little misleading with any circulator pump... These circulators will only circulate water that is already under pressure inside the pipes. Example one, a closed loop heating system. If you are trying to use this circulator to lift or pump water above the impeller then in 98% of all installations it will just sit there and spin. You would have to stack a group of these pumps together or purchase a much larger pump to overcome the head pressure.
      Personalized Plumbing & Heating

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Generally speaking this pumps requires a positive pressure at the inlet, they are not self-priming, the easiest way to accomplish this is to make sure the level of the water is a couple of feet above the level of the pump, this will produce 1psi at the inlet do to the weight of the water. You should always flush water through the system prior to turning on the pump, this is a wet lubricated pump and will ruined if run dry more than a few seconds.
      Mike

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      not sure what the opening presure is of the check valve, maybe you could try removing the inlet check valve and try it

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Your going to need 10 psi of pressure. The water is basically flat now and cannot build head pressure because it drains the incoming water. Pex sells an auto fill valve that will keep your system pressurized.
      Walter

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      It has an integrated Check valve. Prime the pump and it should work or pull the check valve off of the top of the pump.

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You will need some head (pressure) to get the water into the pump at least to get it "primed", otherwise your trying to pump air. These pumps aren't made to work with vacuum, but it may operate once it is primed. If its too far above your tank it will just cavitate. It should be placed below the water level. Pumps have a npsh spec (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NPSH) which dictates how much head they need above them. On a side note this is a cast iron pump, your atmospheric system will need oxygen control or the pump will rust out.

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I don't think so. Check the following:
      1. Check pump receives electricity.
      2. Is pump piped properly? Check flow arrow in pump head.
      3. Check there is no air in inlet line, purge it. Try again.
      4. Be sure pump works, take off motor. Take away four screws with Allen
      key, separate motor and head. Once separated, having motor with impeller on
      free rotation, start pump, impeller should rotate fast.
      5. If impeller doesn't work, motor is faulty, exchange it. If it works,
      it should be 2 or 3, or discharge is too high.

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The Pump is most likely air bound. Loosen the pump seals until water
      comes out or bleed the air out however possible.

      Answered on 4/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    Hi,
    I have a open system on a domestic hot water tank.
    5 loops of 200' 1/2 pex ,one zone.
    What pump,relay and thermostat I have to use?
    Asked on 3/20/2012 by Clau from Chicago,Il

    11 answers

    • A:

      Clau, You need a pump that will pump 7ft/hd at 1 gal min X 5 (loops) for a pump that will pump 7 '/hd at 5 gal/min. Sorry I didn't mention that. Pump choices--Grundfos UP 15-18B7--Up 15-42SU or SF. You have pressure losses on the copper piping and Water heater, too, which must be calculated. So the pumps that I mentioned gives you extra head (pressure @ 1 gal/min). Of course, you can use a bigger pump (more Head which will increase the flow thu your PEX) to a limit. There is a maximum velocity in ft/sec for copper pipe and pex that shouldn't exceeded. Think about a check valve on the supply or a thermal trap to prevent thermal siphon depending on how the loops are plumbed if you get heat radiating thu the floor when everything is turned off for awhile.

      Answered on 5/2/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • A:

      No heat exchanger in the tank? Set house pressure to 55 psi. Open system (no heat exchanger) bronze or stainless pump mandatory. Set tank output temp not more than 125 degrees. Use W/R 1F86-344 type thermostat. Control pump with W/R 90-130 fan control center type. Can't run 110V through 18 ga thermostat wire (24V only). 5 Loops must be identical in size, length and resistance or balancing valves necessary. Max flow thu 1/2" PEX is 2gal/min. calculate for less (1gal/min). Diff. Manufactures make 1/2"PEX in diff. dia. see their pressure loss tables. Off-Hand, Pr. Loss 200' 1/2" PEX @ 1gal/min @ 120 deg. H2O = 6.88'/hd---2gal/min = 23.88'/hd. You need pump that will pump 7'/hd @ 1gal/min, + all other pressure losses. Grundfos UP15-42SF or SU. --- 3 ways to increase heat output--increase # loops--increase flow--increase Water temp. Can use ALPHA 15-55SF pump + Taco Sentry zone valve + 24V--20VA transformer.

      Answered on 4/28/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Assuming that these 5 loops are in parallel, and the water temp is 120 deg. F., your system will have about 0.6 ft. of head @ 1 GPM.
      Also, you need to know the heat load of what you are heating. Are these loops embeded in concrete, or under a wood subfloor?  A concrete slab (if insulated) will generally require less BTU/h than a wood sub floor.
      Since I don't have that information we'll size the pump for a wood subfloor (which if for concrete the pump will have shorter cycles).
      Figuring 0.6 ft. head @ 1 gpm, a Grundfos UP 15-10 B7 would give you about 5 gpm.
      Relay: Taco SR501-2
      Thermostat: Honeywell TH2110D1009
       
      I have a open system on a domestic hot water tank.
      5 loops of 200' 1/2 pex ,one zone.
      What pump,relay and thermostat I have to use?

      Answered on 3/25/2012 by LeeRen from Utah
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Pump works great. I have 2 zones 500. Ft each. Workable great.
      Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

      Answered on 3/24/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      1st) Is this for in-floor radiant heat? For this discussion I will assume it is.
      2nd) If you’re going to use an open system where is it vented? All I have seen are closed system w/an expansion tank when using a domestic hot water heater. Solar systems do incorporate a drain down system (open loop system) but even those often have the heat exchanger coil and water heater closed. If you drain down a domestic hot water heater (remove fluid from the inside) you run the risk of causing damage to it and or your dwelling by overheating what ever fluid is left inside it, the pressure relief valve may also open further emptying the tank causing an even more dangerous condition, I would not go this way.
      3rd) If you have ’” PEX tubing each that is fine, however those five loops equate into 5 zones, not one. So you will need a 5 zone manifold to properly distribute and adjust the flow to each area you’re heating.
      4th) In order to calculate the pump size you will need to know the total head pressure and the rate of flow. That m be calculated by the number of feet of tubing, how many fittings and their sizes (1/2”-3/4”-1”), the pressure drop through the water heater as well as any other item the fluid flows in and out of. Then you will need to know the total amount of flow in Gallons Per Minute (GPM) to heat the floor on the coldest day of the year. You should be able to find this info from either the Taco or Grundfos web sites. In any case the Taco 007 008 009 etc. single speed and the Grundfos 3 speed UPS 15 58 are standards in the industry for moving this kind of flow. The nice part of the three speed is that if your calculations are off, the pump speed can be changed with the flick of a switch to make up for the miscalculation. There are many variables to a system, you need to do a little more homework so when your system is up and running, it works and you don’t find yourself going back and redoing it over and over again.
      5th) There are different ways to control the pump, a very simple way is to get a 120 volt thermostat and connect it to the pump. When the room calls for heat the thermostat turns it on (which starts the fluid circulating) the individual zone temperatures are controlled by the flow meter setting on the zone manifold. Then there is the 24vac power supply method with relays etc., or the use of a differential temperature controller with sensors. There are several ways to control the heat, this is something you will have to decide on. Budget, system configuration and knowledge may be important factors in determining this.
      Good Luck
      Fred

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You have relatively low flow with ½” pipe. PEX has a C factor of 150 for
      which the Glover pocket ref lists a friction head of 10.5 ft./100 ft. at 2
      gpm. So for a single line for 200 ft. your friction head is 10.5 x 2 = 21
      ft. With five runs x 2 gpm, you would have 5 x 2 gpm = 10 gpm total with 21
      ft. of friction head. Looking at pump curves, you will find a TACO 009 pumps
      6 gpm at 21 ft., and 8 gpm at 12.5 ft. so it will pump somewhere between 6
      to 8 gpm., probably closer to 8 gpm. A TACO 011 pump will produce 12 gpm at
      21 ft. of head and 10 gpm at 23 ft., so it will pump a little more than 2
      gpm per loop. Your choice. You should use a stainless or brass pump, not
      ferrous.
      The TACO Single Zone Switching Relay will work for you. Hope you can read
      the wiring diagram because you’re going to have to wire per the diagram. The
      manufacturer’s wiring labels are misleading, in my opinion. A basic heat
      only, or 1 heat, 1 cooling thermostat is all you need. Install it at chest
      level (~48”).
      Best wishes,
      SOLAR TECH, LLC
      Allan Wulff
      ***.****

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      A Grundfos UPS15-58FC or Taco 007 w/IFC will work fine. You will need a single zone (Pony) relay. For Radiant, go with a very basic t-stat. One zone, heat only. Be sure to have a thermostatic mixing valve installed with radiant heat.
      Personalized Plumbing & Heating
      "Solutions for every budget"

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Hello,
      I have a similar system and I use the Grundfos 15-58 pumps and standard
      programmable thermostats connected via the Taco SR 503 switching relay to
      control the pumps. The thermostats click on and the switching relay allows
      120 v power to flow to the pumps which pushes hot water through the system.
      This has great worked to heat three zones in my house for three years.
      Sean

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Clau,
      Some things to think about.
      The size of the pump is determined by A) the amount of hot water you'll need to push through the pipes, and B) the amount of resistance in the pipes to that flow of water.
      Since you don't mention what the heat requirement is (BTUs), I can only guess.  Is this one room in a cold climate? Maybe 10,000 BTUs max? You are using the domestic hot water heater in an open system, so is the water temp 120 F? There is some fun math that converts heat requirements to gallons/min of water at a certain temperature. How the pipes are installed in your floor also impacts the math.  A low water temperature can be a problem heating a big room in a cold climate.
      Your system piping sounds simple (1 manifold?), so the flow resistance (feet of head) is probably low (<5 feet perhaps?).
      Just guessing, but a 1/25 orhorsepower pump will probably work just fine. Just guessing. All pumps come with graphs showing how much flow they generate for a given resistance. Many bro choose from.  The MOST IMPORTANT thing is that you choose a brass or stainless steel pump.  Dissolved air in water contains oxygen, which corrodes iron pumps (and piping!).
      The Taco one zone pump relay is easy to use.  Many thermostats to choose from.  I like the Uponor models, which are designed for radiant heat.Never put a thermostat on an exterior wall.

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I use one of these pumps on my basement slab which is 6 loops of ½" @ 200' each. I use a simple 120v wall thermostat to control the pump. That set-up is designed for my basement though I use the pump set on the slowest speed and have the water temp mixed down to 95deg.
      Set-ups vary though, I use the same pump upstairs on the highest speed with water mixed to 145deg with 12v t-stats and Honeywell zone valves which have a 120v switch built in to turn the pump on. I would not make it an open system unless you have to, there is no reason to make it open unless you have a vessel in the system that can't handle 15psi. Your water heater can take much more and so can the pump and piping. Just get a little expansion tank, save yourself from the corrosion.

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      We would recommend a Taco SR501-2 switching relay, a Tekmar 509 thermostat, and a bronze or stainless steel circulator. The size of the circulator must be based on the flow rate and head pressure of the loops.

      Answered on 3/20/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    Since this has a flow valve it is not necessary to install an inline flow valve. My question what if an inline flow valve was installed with this circulator would it cause any damage?
    Asked on 2/13/2012 by Anonymous

    2 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      It would not be necessary to install a seperate flow valve if the pump has one. However I don't see any real problem with having a seperate flow valve. If there is already a flow valve in the system then simply remove the flow valve from the pump before installing the pump.

      Answered on 3/9/2012 by Jim from Lisbon, CT
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      It wouldn't cause any damage, but it would create a further reduction in flow.

      Answered on 2/13/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    If this pump is mounted in a horizontal position, will it perform correctly?
    Asked on 1/21/2012 by Anonymous from PA

    3 answers

    • A:

      YES, it will perform correctly. I use this pump, a lot. With the axis through the pump flanges it can be mounted vertically (vertical axis) in any position. Horizontally ( horizontal axis) the pump motor must be level(not be below or above the horizontal axis). However, in systems with 45 psi or above, system static pressure , the motor can be mounted above the horizontal axis. Never below, 45 psi precludes most hydronic systems. The motor, if in the wrong configuration, can be rotated on the volute by removing the 4 screws which hold the motor to the volute and rotating the motor to the position you want and re-tightening.

      Answered on 4/28/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      This pump will operate as long as its canister is not pointing straight up in the air, but it's never a good idea to allow water to run over electric.

      Answered on 1/26/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      they will not work that way,it's not recommended to install that way.

      Answered on 2/8/2012 by R and A Stove Works from cowen wv
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    I have this pump running on a 1/2 inch 250 foot underfloor pex leg. The rest of the home is is circulated by a boiler pump in my 2000 sq/ft home with cast iron radiators in the rest of the house.

    The Grundros pump just is on the pex leg but the return goes back to the main boiler system. My problem is that after about 24 hours my 12 lbs system is up to the the system relief valve pressure of 30 lbs.

    There is an expansion tank on the system, I don't know what it is set at as I never had to pay any attention to it.

    What can I do to stop the pressure build up?
    Asked on 1/16/2012 by Doug in Buffalo from Buffalo, NY

    2 answers

    • A:

      Be sure your pressure regulating valve is functioning correctly and set to 12-15 psi. Amtrol Filtrol Exp tank static pressure is regulated by the air charge in the Exp tank (factory set to 12 psi). If O.K.--then--
      Your expansion tank is water logged. assuming air cushion type, you lost your air cushion. On bottom of tank is a plastic blue or red cap. Inside is a schrader valve(same as tire air valve) . You can unscrew the tiny valve, go to auto parts store and buy a new schrader valve and tightening tool and replace the valve (easy). Make sure it is tight. If water comes out of the schrader valve when you take out valve , you need a new EXP tank. I've discussed setting the pressure under the heading Expansion Tanks, this forum. Basically this, no water in tank when inflating tank--- The static system pressure (pump not pumping)height from the Exp. tank to the highest heat emitter + 5psi. --2 story house, typically, 12-15 psi. Your Exp. tank too small if PEX is new addition?

      Answered on 4/28/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      Expansion tanks are normally pre-set to 12 psi. It's possible that the expansion tank is not functioning properly due to a broken diaphragm.

      Answered on 2/10/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    I have a UPS 15-42F that needs replaced is the correct model to replace or a UP 15-42/VS?
    Asked on 1/15/2012 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      The current part number for UPS15-42F circulators is 59896180.

      Answered on 2/10/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    I was looking for this pump on Grundfos' website and couldn't find it. Is this pump still being produced?
    Asked on 1/4/2012 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • A:

      UPS 15-58FC YES!!! SKU: 59896341

      Answered on 4/28/2012 by Homer from Nevada
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    What exactly does the check valve do. When this pump is used as a zone pump, does the check valve prevent forward flow thru the pump when when others are running?
    Asked on 12/30/2011 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      The purpose of the check valve is to prevent heat from flowing into areas that are not calling for heat. Check valves are a necessity in systems zoned by circulator. This pump includes an integral check valve, eliminating the need for one in the line.

      Answered on 12/30/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    would this pump have enough power to supply water to 600 sq/ft of radiant heat on the 1st floor, and 4 hydronic baseboard heaters on the second floor? With the pump located on the 1st floor.
    Asked on 12/18/2011 by Anonymous

    3 answers

    • A:

      Infloor radiant runs differently than baseboard. Infloor temps. are 95-125 degrees. Baseboard is 165-180 degrees. You don't want 180 deg water running thu PEX. You get overshoot on the thermostat set point maybe 10 deg above set point just from the hot water in the PEX continuing to radiate heat. The 2 sys must be hydraulically separated. If a Condensing Boiler, it should be hydraulically separated from the two heating zones, too.
      The pump to the baseboard get 180 deg water--the pump to the infloor gets 95 deg water. You need injection pumping or a mixing valve (Taco I series) for the infloor setup to get 95 deg water in the PEX.

      Answered on 4/28/2012 by Homer from Nevada
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I would say yes, it has three speeds on hi speed I've heated 1800 sq feet. You can run into problems if your using very small tubing.

      Answered on 12/23/2011 by the radiant one from Santa cruz, ca
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      This depends on the flow rate and head pressure of the system. These figures are primarily determined by the BTU load of the area and the total equivalent pipe run. It is always recommended to use separate pumps for areas of baseboard and areas of in-floor radiant.

      Answered on 12/20/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • UPS15-58FC, 3-Speed Circulator Pump, 1/25 HP, 115 volt

    Q:

    Can I purchase replacement check valves for these pumps? I have a few zones that are pulling water when other zones are running. Im not sure if the valve is bad or it was removed when the pump was installed. I want to have the parts ready to go once the system is broken down.
    Asked on 12/16/2011 by Woody from Long Island NY

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      The replacement check valve for this pump is part number 596630.

      Answered on 12/16/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
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