4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil Zoom

4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

SKU:1620-48-125

Brand: rFoil

rFoil
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$429.95
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Specs

Width: 4 ft.
Height: 3/8"
Length: 125 ft.
Application: Heating
Radiant Heat
R-Value:
?
3.8
Material: Aluminum
Polyethylene

Description for rFoil 1620-48-125

ULTRA CONCRETE BARRIER rFOILTM is engineered specifically for use underneath concrete. It dramatically improves the performance of radiant heating systems and provides enhanced temperature maintenance for concrete floors. ULTRA CBF is the only insulation with a patented Bubble/FOIL/Bubble configuration on the market.
Ultra Concrete Barrier rFOILTM - a single layer of Radiant Barrier aluminum rFOILTM sandwiched between two layers of ultra strong Polyethylene bubbles.
Under Concrete Insulation for Radiant Heating Applications Insulation for Outside Foundation Walls Under Carpet
Advantages Concrete Insulation Creates an ideal under concrete insulation Is an excellent Vapor and Radon Barrier Easy to install Reflects radiant energy in the desired direction Not affected by moisture or humidity Does not promote the growth of Fungus, Bacteria or Rodents
R-value: 3.8

4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

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8 Questions | 12 Answers
Displaying questions 1-8
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    On my concrete foundation ,what is the process
    My understanding is first we poor concrete 6 inches wait two or three days
    Then we should add concrete foil barreir,then on the top of it we should add 1/2 inch pex coil
    Then poor concrete again is this correct ,please help
    Thanks
    Asked on 3/17/2012 by george from mass

    3 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I don't know if 6" is code in your area but that's excessive. Lay down your foil with 16" to 24" of dirt on top of the foil. Then do a 4" concrete pad..
      It should look:
      4. 4" concrete
      3. 16" to 24" of dirt
      2. Foil
      1. Mother earth.
      GM/iPhone

      Answered on 3/17/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      That will work, but you need two inches of concrete with Fibermesh or similar in the mix over the pipes to avoid cracks. That is a total of eight inches of concrete which is probably way more than you need.
      Another approach is to lay the foil barrier on top of compacted gravel or a thin layer of sand. Then lay down 6x6 welded wire mesh over the barrier foil. Use flat pieces as the rolls are next to impossible to get laid flat. Use plastic zip ties to attach the Pex to the mesh. One nice thing about the mesh is it gives you a grid for easy spacing of the loops. Pressurize the Pex and leave a gauge on it overnight to confirm no leaks before you pour. Leave the pressure on for the pour. If the pipe gets cut with a shovel or something it will be very obvious and easy to fix before the mud sets. Put little Dobbies or chairs under the mesh before you pour to lift the pipes up to the mid point of the slab.
      Depending on your loads you may only need four inches of concrete. Check with an engineer or someone with experience to confirm. A residential floor with good compacted sub grade can be four inches. If it is a garage with heavy point loads from commercial trucks, jacks or equipment like lathes or presses then six inches is a more appropriate thickness. If you are putting load bearing walls on the slab then you need an engineer to look at it. In that case a four inch slab with grade beams under the loads is more likely to be the proper approach.
      The main difference between you proposed topping slab and using the structural slab for heat is the thermal mass. A two inch thick topping slab with a thermal break below it will change temperature a lot faster than a four or six inch thick slab. If you want steady temp 24/7 then a thick slab is ideal. If you want faster response and have a cold room warm up quicker go with the two inch topping slab. But quick is only relative to a thick slab. It will still take a couple or three hours for a two inch slab to get up to temp from a cold start. Choose an appropriate thermostat that can handle the large thermal mass and anticipate. Otherwise you can massively overshoot and have a room that is too hot and hard to cool down. This is also the reason that controlling the circulating water temp based on outdoor air temp is a good idea with a high thermal mass radiant system.
      Good luck. A warm floor is a wonderful way to heat I'd you do it right.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 3/17/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Yes, you are correct. I would recommend using a metal mesh in the concrete
      (placed below the pex but above the insulation) and using something like
      Schluter Ditra to isolate your tile from the 2" heated slab. I had some
      travertine (a soft material) crack when I heated up the floor and caused it
      to expand. The Ditra should provide enough isolation to prevent that from
      happening. Also, I would space the pex tubing about 6-8 inches apart
      instead of the 12 inches that's often recommended, as I can feel a cold
      temperature in between the 12 inch runs. Pex Supply sells a tubing spacer
      that might be useful (it's a gray plastic u-channel with u-shaped openings
      in the sidewalls). Finally, be sure to run the pex through a 90 degree
      conduit where it enters the concrete so you don't get a crimp at that point
      (assuming a 90 degree bend there, as is common).

      Answered on 3/17/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    I built a 14ft.x 20ft. Conservatory 15 years ago. I was originally going to heat it with a cast iron hot water radiator. I poured a 4" concrete slab on bedrock floor, which I intend to finish with hex tiles.
    I have 1 3/4" from the top of the concrete slab to join the floor in the rest of the house. I would like to now use pex in floor radiant. Is there a reflective foil that my be glued to the concrete floor, upon
    which, the pex may be installed with 1 1/2" of new concrete and then tiled? How much heat would
    I lose if don't put any type of insulation or reflective barrier under the pex tubing? I have concerns
    about this product compressing and I really want something thinner. Thank you
    Asked on 1/4/2012 by Grant from Orcas Island Washington

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      The fact that you have an existing slab makes insulation less of a necessity. The existing slab will hold much of the heat. We still recommend putting some kind of barrier down.

      Answered on 1/5/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    In your opinion is any other form of insulation needed in a slab installation in western PA other than say 2" of perimeter insulation.
    Asked on 12/1/2011 by agedman from DuBois PA15801

    2 answers

    • A:

      In my opinion no other insulation is required, however you really need to check with your local building department to see what the local code requirements are.

      Answered on 12/5/2011 by Anonymous from None

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      It is always a good idea to insulate below the tubing throughout the slab. Heat can be lost not only through the perimeter of the house, but also straight down.

      Answered on 12/15/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    can this be used on top of #2 stone then wire mesh, then wire tie pex 1/2" and 4"concrete for a garage floor?
    Asked on 11/30/2011 by garageheat from east berne,ny

    2 answers

    • A:

      There is no reason you couldn't use Concrete Barrier Foil as you described, however you need to check with your local building department to see if this meets local code requirements.

      Answered on 12/5/2011 by Anonymous from None

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      Yes, it can.

      Answered on 12/15/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    I also would like to use this product on top of a wood subfloor then pour concrete on top. Questions: what's the minimum thickness of the concrete and how deep in the concrete should the pex tubing be?
    Asked on 9/7/2011 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      You would need to have a minimum of 3/4" of concrete over the PEX.

      Answered on 9/26/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    Can the barrier be punctured to secure the pex tubing?
    Asked on 7/22/2011 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      Yes, but the R-value of the foil will decrease.

      Answered on 8/5/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    The plumbers used bubble insulation in the basement of our house should we install fiberglass insullation also
    Asked on 5/19/2011 by Lary from St Albans Vt

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      Adding more insulation would not hurt your system.

      Answered on 5/20/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • rFoil 4' x 125' Concrete Barrier Foil

    Q:

    I would like to use this foil product on a wood floor and place my pex tubing on top of this foil with a galvinized wire on top of the pex tube and then pour 2 inches total of concrete on these products for a finish floor. Do you recommend this procedure
    Asked on 1/18/2011 by Anonymous from New Paltz, NY

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      That procedure should work just fine.

      Answered on 2/1/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
Displaying questions 1-8

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